As a nail technician with 17 years of experience, I have seen the nail industry go through many changes — and in my opinion, most of them have been positive.
Today, our industry is safer, more educated, and more professional than ever before. Product regulations are improving, ingredient awareness is growing, and both nail technicians and clients are becoming more informed. That is a very good thing.
The Nail Industry Has Come a Long Way
Years ago, ingredient knowledge was nowhere near the level it is today. Many technicians simply used what was available on the market without fully understanding what was inside the bottle - the choices were extremely limited, regulations not strict. Thankfully, times have changed.
Modern nail professionals now ask important questions:
Is this product compliant?
Is it safe for repeated use?
Does it meet UK/EU standards?
Is it suitable for sensitive clients?
This shift has raised standards across the industry.
The Reality of MMA – Many Experienced Nail Techs Will Understand
I still remember the years when products containing MMA (Methyl Methacrylate) were unfortunately far more common.
Any nail technician with 10+ years of experience ( even less) has likely come across this at least once — especially when removing nails applied in poor-quality or unregulated salons. You instantly know something is wrong.
It looks like acrylic, but when soaked in acetone it turns into a strang smelling, sticky gel-like mass that becomes extremely difficult to remove. Instead of breaking down properly, it softens into weird residue that clings to the nail. Even worse, the natural nails underneath were often left severely damaged, over-filed, thin, or traumatised.
This ingredient was never something that belonged in professional nail care. Its primary industrial uses were outside of the beauty world, and thankfully awareness around MMA has grown significantly.
TPO – The Biggest Recent Industry Change
One of the biggest modern changes has been the restriction of TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide), a photoinitiator used to help gel products cure under UV or LED lamps. As regulations tighten in the UK and Europe, many professional brands are now reformulating their ranges to become TPO-free.
HEMA – Not Banned, But Regulated
There is often confusion around HEMA (Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate).
HEMA is not banned, but its safe usage levels are regulated. It must be used within permitted limits and formulated correctly.
Just to make this clear - Hema is not enemy BUT needs to be used with caution. I am a massive fan of Hema free products as I strongly believe there are plenty of high technology modern safer options which work as good as Hema containing products (phosphate adhesion technology). The concern with HEMA is not simply the ingredient itself — it is incorrect use, poor-quality formulas, skin contact during application, and repeated overexposure that can lead to allergies or sensitisation.
That is why professional education and correct application matter so much.
Cl 77820 - EU Ban ( UK follow up expected later in 2027)
This is the metallic silver colorant used in cosmetics for shimmer, chrome, platinum, reflective, and metallic effects. In nail products it was commonly used in silver gels, glitter gels, chrome shades, platinum collections, and metallic art gels.
What changed in the EU? From 1 May 2026, EU rules significantly tightened use of Silver / CI 77820 in cosmetics. For nail products specifically, industry sources indicate CI 77820 is no longer permitted for nail cosmetics, while limited use remains in certain lip and eye products at low concentrations.
If a gel polish, builder gel, art gel, or glitter product sold in the EU contains CI 77820, it likely needs reformulation or removal from sale for EU compliance.
Silver pigment was heavily used in: Platinum collections, Chrome gels, Metallic liners, Silver glitter shades
Why Regulations Are Positive, Not Negative
Some people see ingredient changes as a problem. I see them as progress.
Every new regulation helps:
Protect nail technicians
Protect clients
Remove poor-quality products from the market
Raise professional standards
Build trust in our industry
After 17 years, I can honestly say the nail world today is far better than it used to be.
My Honest Advice to Nail Technicians
Choose products carefully. Cheap products with unclear ingredients, no SDS sheets available to public can cost far more in the long run.
Good brands are always transparent with ingredients, sds sheets are available to access on website (not upon request), responsible manufacturing
The nail industry is evolving — and that is something to celebrate 🥳
We have moved from questionable products and limited awareness to smarter modern formulas, better training, and safer hygiene standards.
After 17 years in this industry, I truly believe the best years of professional nail care are still ahead of us 💖
Petra xxx
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