The nail industry has changed fast—and for the better. Not long ago, most nail techs weren’t asking what was inside their gels. Formulas were a mystery, and education around ingredients was minimal.
Think back 15–20 years, in my personal case exactly 17 years ago our kit consisted of
One standard UV lamp with bulky bulbs ( 4 very funny shaped big bulbs), Basic gel kits with little explanation, No real conversation about safety or ingredients - who cared :D
Many techs, including me, worked with basic kits :
A sheer pink gel for French looks
A random violet-toned gel (often with unclear purpose)
A thick, semi-transparent white that many to be used for French manicure
Back then, if your lamp bulbs browned or curing felt off, you just replaced them. That was the extent of “technical awareness.” :D
What’s Changed?
Today, the industry is far more informed—and clients are too. Safety and ingredient awareness is an essential knowledge of every high standard training and education.
We now talk about:
-
Ingredient safety
-
Allergies and sensitisation awareness
-
Proper curing systems - using newest technologies and inventions
-
Advanced formulations
And that brings us to the big question: Are some of the ingredients and formulations still relevant in 2026 ? or should some of them just simply become a past.... lets have a look together.
HEMA "Holy grail" or Enemy ?
HEMA (Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) is a small monomer used in many UV/LED nail products like gel polishes, builder gels, hard gels, acrylic monomers, base coats, hard gels ...
Its main job is simple: help the product stick to the natural nail and create a strong, durable bond during curing.
Because of its small molecular size, it penetrates surfaces easily—which is great for adhesion, forgiving prep issues, and provides perfect adhesion even on non perfect nails … BUT also where the problems start...
HEMA isn’t new at all. It has been used in the nail industry since the early days of UV gels and acrylic systems (1980s–1990s).For years and years HEMA was a "golden" ingredient and main adhesion promoter. It became especially popular in gel polish systems (2000s onward) because it improved wear and reduced lifting even without perfect prep. Back then a proper prep or Russian manicure just wasn't a thing so we solely relied on a strong adhesive ingredient to provide long lasting effect. For many years, it was considered a standard ingredient in professional products.
Back then, there was very little discussion about ingredient safety— like I mentioned previously, performance came first.
Common Problems with HEMA
Here’s the honest part—HEMA works, but it comes with real risks, especially if not handled properly. This became one of the biggest talks in nail industry nowadays and there is a reason behind it .....
1. Allergic Reactions (Biggest Issue)
HEMA is one of the most common causes of nail product allergies
Reactions can include: Redness, Itching, Swelling around nails or fingers, In severe cases, blistering or lifting of the nail plate (onlycholysis)
2. Skin Sensitisation Over Time
Even small repeated exposure (like touching uncured gel) can trigger sensitisation, that's why wearing a gloves while working with uncured raw nail products is a MUST these days and part of professional standards. Nail techs are especially at risk due to daily exposure.
Another very serious problem with HEMA is due to its molecular structure, people may slowly develop sensitivity overtime even if used properly following the right instructions.
Once someone becomes sensitised, it’s often permanent and may slowly cause sensitivity to other acrylates and monomers.
4. Improper Curing Risks
If gels are undercured, leftover HEMA monomers remain active
Important Reality Check
HEMA itself is not “toxic enemy" in the way social media sometimes suggests.
The real issue is exposure + misuse.
Are There Real Alternatives to HEMA with same performance effect?
Short answer: Yes—and some are very good.
Modern systems use:
-Higher molecular weight monomers (less skin penetration → lower allergy risk)
-Alternative adhesion promoters
-Multi-component bonding systems instead of relying on one aggressive ingredient
The goal isn’t just to replace HEMA—it’s to rebuild adhesion in a safer way.
What Is a Phosphate Adhesion System?
This is one of the most important developments in gel chemistry.
A phosphate adhesion system uses phosphate-functional monomers that:
Chemically interact with the nail plate (keratin)
Improve bonding without needing highly sensitising monomers like HEMA
Think of it like this:
-HEMA = “grabs hard” but can irritate
-Phosphate system = “bonds smart” at a chemical level
How It Actually Works
The natural nail contains keratin, which has reactive sites.
Phosphate monomers- Form ionic and hydrogen bonds with the nail surface, Create a stable interface layer between nail and product, Improve adhesion without deep penetration into the skin
Does It Perform as Well as HEMA?
This is where many brands either overpromise or get it wrong.
A well-formulated phosphate system can:
-
Match HEMA in adhesion
-
Reduce lifting
-
Maintain flexibility
-
Improve long-term wear
But only if the full system is right:
-
Correct photoinitiators - multi initiator systems based on multiple photo initiators curing the gel on different spectrums to ensure the product is fully cured not just on surface but also inside.
-
Proper viscosity balance
-
Compatible lamp curing - double-wavelength, right spectrum between 365nm-405nm, right diode placement, quality of diodes...
-
Skilled application
If the formula is weak → it will fail.
If the tech is sloppy → it will still lift.
This system is extremely clever and based on chemistry and nail tech skill level, works as good- sometimes even better than HEMA based products but requires proper prep and training. It's very important to replace a whole adhesion system not just remove HEMA.
The Shift in Modern Formulations
Modern European based Brands (including Nail Jam) are no longer relying on HEMA as the “go-to” ingredient.
Instead, we’re seeing more HEMA-free systems, Alternative adhesion technologies (like phosphate-based systems), Safer, more stable formulations
What This Means for Nail Techs
If you’re still using HEMA-based products, it doesn’t mean they’re “bad.” But it does mean You need to be more aware of risks, Application must be precise (avoid skin contact) and proper Education is non-negotiable
HEMA isn’t completely outdated, —but it’s no longer the standard the industry depends on and it's slowly becoming an "old school" formulation.
Is HEMA Still Relevant?
Short answer: Yes—but it’s no longer needed.
So why are some manufacturers still using it even if they have an alternative ? there are few reasons behind it and the first one will be very honest: it is extremely cheap and cost-effective compare to modern adhesion monomers, improves adhesion even on not-perfectly prepped nails and helps with performance, unfortunately often used in DIY home nail kits where promote longevity of manicures.
The real shift in 2026 is this:
👉 Nail techs these days are no longer just artists—they’re informed professionals who understand what they’re working with, they are educated about allergies, ingredients and formulations
And that’s exactly how it should be...
0 comments